How to use the mouse test
Move the pointer inside the box, click each button and roll the wheel. Every button that has registered turns green; the one you are holding right now is filled in red. The right button’s menu and the side buttons’ back-and-forward actions are blocked inside the box, so you can press everything without leaving the page.
The small trail follows the pointer. It is there to show whether movement is continuous or jumps from place to place.
Double clicks and worn buttons
The most common mouse fault is a button that double-clicks on its own. You press once, but files open, folders close again, or text selection jumps. The cause is almost always the tiny switch under the button: as its contacts wear, they bounce when they meet and send two clicks instead of one.
The test measures the time between two presses of the same button:
- A deliberate double click from a person takes a clearly noticeable moment, and the interval shows as normal.
- When the interval is shorter than the threshold in the site settings — 70 milliseconds by default — you get a warning. Human double clicks are rarely that fast.
To test for the fault, click once, slowly, many times — twenty or thirty single clicks. If warnings appear even though you never meant to double-click, the switch is going. Do the same with the right button: it wears too, just more slowly.
The scroll wheel
Roll the wheel slowly in one direction and watch the counters. Up or Down should rise, and direction jumps should stay at zero. A worn or dusty wheel sensor sometimes reports a step the wrong way, which you notice as a page that twitches back while you scroll. A few jumps when you change direction yourself are normal; jumps while you roll steadily one way are the fault.
Polling rate
Polling rate is how often the mouse reports its position to the computer. Office mice commonly use 125 times per second, gaming mice 500 or 1000, and some go higher. Move the mouse in quick circles inside the box to take a reading.
Treat the result as approximate. Browsers do not hand every report to a web page the moment it arrives; they group them in step with the screen refresh. The test collects the grouped reports where the browser allows it, which gets closer to the real rate, but a high-end mouse will often still read lower than advertised. A reading stuck near 125 on a mouse sold as 1000 Hz is worth checking in the mouse’s own software, where the rate is usually a setting.
Common problems and what they mean
The pointer jumps or stutters
Look at the surface first. Optical sensors struggle on glass, mirrors and very glossy desks. A hair or a speck of dust over the sensor underneath causes the same symptom. A mouse pad fixes most of these cases at once.
A wireless mouse lags or skips
Replace or charge the battery before anything else — weak batteries cause lag long before the mouse stops working. Then move the receiver closer: a short USB extension cable helps. USB 3 ports and the cables plugged into them are known to interfere with 2.4 GHz receivers, so a USB 2 port or a port on the other side of the computer can make a real difference.
A button does nothing at all
Check whether the mouse software has reassigned it. If the button has no light in the test and the software shows no reassignment, the switch has failed.
The pointer moves too fast or too slow
That is sensitivity, set in the system mouse settings or the mouse software, not a fault. The test shows movement the same way whatever the speed.
For the other half of the desk, try the keyboard test. If you want to see how fast your clicks really are, the reaction time test measures it and lets you challenge a friend. Checking a second-hand laptop? The used device check covers the touchpad as one of its steps.