How to check a screen for dead pixels
Press Start full screen. The page fills with a single colour; tap the screen or use the arrow keys to move to the next one, and press Esc to leave. You can also click one of the swatches to open a particular colour directly.
Look across the whole screen on each colour, from a normal viewing distance and then a little closer. Wipe the screen first — a speck of dust on black looks exactly like a lit pixel.
Each colour is good at revealing something different:
- Black shows pixels that stay lit, and light leaking around the edges.
- White shows pixels that stay dark, stains and pressure marks.
- Red, green and blue show a pixel where one colour part is stuck on or off.
- Grey is the best test for uneven brightness: cloudy patches or darker corners.
The colour only changes when you tap or press a key, never on its own. This page never flashes.
Dead, stuck and hot pixels
A screen pixel is made of three tiny parts — red, green and blue — that mix into every colour.
- A dead pixel gets no power. It stays black on every colour and is easiest to see on white.
- A stuck pixel has one or two parts permanently on, so it glows red, green, blue or a mix of them on every background. It is most visible on black.
- A hot pixel is stuck fully on and shows as a white dot on black.
The difference matters: a stuck pixel sometimes recovers; a dead one does not. If you find a mark, move the page slightly. A mark that stays in the same place on the glass is a pixel fault; one that moves with the image is in the picture you are viewing.
Gradient and banding
The gradient fades from black to white. On a good screen it looks smooth. If you see distinct steps or stripes, the screen is showing fewer shades than the image contains. Some banding in the darkest part is common on laptop screens. Heavy banding everywhere can also come from night-light filters, colour profiles or a low colour depth setting, so check those before blaming the panel.
Refresh rate
Press Measure and keep the window in view for a second. The result is roughly how many times per second the browser was able to redraw the page, which usually matches the screen’s refresh rate: 60 Hz on most office screens, and 90, 120, 144 Hz or more on gaming monitors, many phones and newer laptops.
A reading lower than you expect is rarely a fault. Common reasons are a display set to 60 Hz in the system settings, a laptop on battery power, or a power-saving mode. Measure again with the charger connected and nothing else running.
Touch test on phones and tablets
On a touch screen, a grid appears. Drag one finger slowly across every row. Each cell you pass fills in. A row or column that refuses to fill no matter how you approach it is a dead strip in the touch layer, a common result of a cracked or replaced screen.
Then place several fingers down at once and watch the counter. Most phones register several fingers together. If the counter changes while you are not touching anything, the screen is producing phantom touches, which usually means damage or moisture under the glass.
Common problems and what they mean
- Faint shapes of old windows remain. That is image retention. On LCD screens it fades; on OLED it can become permanent burn-in if the same image stays on screen for very long periods.
- Flicker at low brightness. Many screens dim by switching the backlight on and off very fast. Some people notice it as eye strain; raising the brightness usually makes it less noticeable.
- Colours look wrong on one side. Check the viewing angle first. If it stays wrong when you look straight at it, the panel or its cable may be damaged.
When you have checked the screen, My device shows its resolution and pixel density as the browser reports them. Buying a used laptop or phone? The used device check includes the screen and touch tests and records the result, and the webcam test covers the camera above it.