Before you start
Turn your system volume down to about a quarter. The test never starts loud — each tone fades in from silence — but you do not know in advance how loud your headphones are at a given setting, and some are surprisingly sensitive.
Put your headphones on the right way round. Most have a small L and R printed inside the band or on the ear cups.
Checking left and right
Press Left. You should hear a steady tone in your left ear only. Press Right and it should move to your right ear. Both plays it in the middle, as if it came from straight ahead.
This quickly catches the most common headphone faults:
- One side is silent. A broken wire inside the cable, a worn plug or a dirty socket. Wiggle the plug gently: if the sound cuts in and out, it is the connection.
- Both sides play, but one is quieter. Check the balance slider in your system sound settings before blaming the hardware. It moves more easily than people expect.
- The sound is in both ears even on Left. Mono audio is switched on. It is an accessibility setting that sends the same sound to both sides, and it hides a dead channel.
- The tone seems to come from one side on Both. One driver is weaker than the other, or the ear cups sit differently on your head. Swap the headphones round: if the weak side moves with the headphones, it is the headphones.
With speakers, stand in front of them at an equal distance. A laptop’s left and right speakers are close together, so the difference is smaller, but it should still be clear.
The frequency sweep
The sweep glides from 20 Hz — a low rumble you feel as much as hear — up to 20 kHz, a thin whistle at the edge of human hearing. It takes 20 seconds and shows the current frequency as it goes.
Listen for three things:
- Rattles or buzzing at particular notes. A buzz that appears at one frequency and vanishes past it points to something loose: a cracked speaker cone, a screw in the case, or a cable touching the speaker grille.
- Sudden drops. Every speaker gets quieter at the extremes, but a gap in the middle of the range is unusual.
- Where the sound starts and stops for you. Small speakers often produce little until well above 100 Hz. At the top end, hearing is the limit rather than the equipment: many adults stop hearing the sweep somewhere between 15 and 18 kHz.
Run the sweep on the speakers and then on headphones if you have both. The comparison tells you quickly whether a problem belongs to the device or to your ears and room.
Common problems and what they mean
No sound at all
The sound is going to a different output. Headphones, speakers, a monitor with built-in speakers and a Bluetooth device all appear as separate outputs, and the system does not always switch when you plug something in. Choose the output you expect in the sound settings. Also check the volume mixer: the browser can be muted on its own while other apps play normally.
Crackling or dropouts
With a cable, it is almost always the plug or the socket. With Bluetooth, it is distance or interference — walls, a phone in a back pocket, or a crowded 2.4 GHz band around Wi-Fi routers. Move closer to the device and try again.
Distortion when the volume goes up
The speaker is being asked for more than it can deliver. Turn the volume down until it stops; if it distorts even at a moderate level, the speaker may be damaged. Audio enhancement features such as bass boost can also push small speakers into distortion.
Sound arrives late
Bluetooth always adds a short delay. It hardly matters for music, but you notice it in games and when watching someone speak. Wired headphones have no such delay.
Testing the other half of a call? The microphone test checks what others hear from you. For a second-hand laptop or phone, the used device check includes the speakers in its report, and My device shows the rest of what the browser can see.